Location

Travelling along the coastal road towards Glenariffe, it would be easy to miss the ancient church of Ardclinis. However, the ruins and old graveyard are well worth stopping for a visit, in this most picturesque of settings.

The old chapel is situated in the townland of Ardclinis in the historic barony of Glenarm Lower. The name in Irish, Ard Claoinise means ‘height of the sloping island’. It is sited on an incline sloping down to the sea and overlooking Red Bay.

“Situated on the green slopes between the basalt escarpment and the shore, this beautiful walled burial ground and church stand in a field above the coast road from Carnlough to Waterfoot, beside a small stream which flows into the sea”

Larne Historic Church Trail (Website: https://larnehistoricchurchtrail.co.uk/tour/)

Early Days

Tradition states that the church was founded by St McKenna in the Early Christian period. Though others assert it was St Macnissi who was responsible for the foundation. Indeed, St Macnissi, patron of the diocese of Down and Connor, is said to be buried here.

The earliest written record of Arclinis church is in the Papal taxation records of 1306

‘Ecclesia de Ardglanys 20 shillings’

However, in 1622, after the English Reformation and the destruction of Catholic churches, the building is described as ‘decayed’. While in 1657 it was said to be ‘ruinated’.

Naturally time has taken its toll on the church and little of the walls now remain. However, at one time it was quite a substantial size measuring over 60ft in length and 21ft in width, with the traditional thatched roof.

The Ardclinis Crozier

That Ardclinis was of some ecclesiastical significance can be surmised by it housing the 12th century crozier associated with St McKenna.

A crozier is the staff carried by a bishop as a sign of his pastoral office. It usually has a curved head to symbolise a shepherd’s crook.

The Ardclinis crozier is about four and a half feet in length. It was made of Irish oak and gilded in brass.

An article in a Belfast newspaper tells us that the sacred relic was kept on the chancel windowsill of the church. Apparently, the holy object was (occasionally) employed to determine cases of fraud or theft!

In 1760 the crozier (in Irish ‘bachil‘), was taken to the home of the Galvin family for safe-keeping. The Galvin’s were farmers near Glenarm. Some 100 years later a descendant, Daniel Galvin, was visited by the church historian Rev James O’Laverty and local parish priest Fr Sharkey. Rev O’Laverty had heard of the crozier’s existence by chance

“In 1860 a lady in Belfast informed me that her servant had told her, that a man named Daniel Galvin, who resided in the mountains above Glenarm, had a crooked stick covered in brass, which he used for dipping into water that was to be given to sick cows. I understood at once that this was an Irish crozier….”

Mr Galvin could not be persuaded to part with the relic which he regarded as a “palladium” or guardian of his home. On the other hand, the two priests could see that he had driven the ancient artefact into a hole in the wall and was using it as a “peg to hold up his yarn”!

In time the ancient crozier passed through marriage, into the Magill family of Aughaboy townland and later into the safekeeping of the McAllister family. In 1932 the Ardclinis crozier was sold to the National Museum of Ireland in Dublin. The money raised was put to good use in the restoration of the Feystown Chapel in the townland of Clady, near Glenarm.

A replica of the crozier can be seen in the porch of St Patrick’s and St Bridgid’s Church in nearby Waterfoot.

Ardclinis Church Graveyard

Surrounding the Ardclinis church site is a graveyard enclosed with a stone wall. The wall includes some of the fallen stones from the old building.

The earliest legible headstone is that of Shean O’Mulvena who died on 16th March1754 aged 56. The burials are mostly from the 19th century and some of the graves are within the walls of the church. The recorded surnames of those interred here are listed on the information board at the site and include Black, McAuley, McCart, Managhan and Murray.

The ‘Fairy Tree’

Another interesting sight at Ardclinis is an ancient hawthorn, known as the Fairy Tree.

The long-lived hawthorn has always had a magical significance in Irish folklore. It was said to belong to the ‘little folk’ and should not be disturbed under any circumstances.

With the arrival of Christianity to the island, many of these ancient pagan sacred sites were incorporated into the new religion. Today these trees belong to both worlds. Rags or tokens are often attached to the branches as a symbol of a particular petition or as a mark of thanksgiving for a request answered. (The line between Christianity and the old ways can be a bit blurred in Ireland).

McKenna’s Chair

Near to the entrance to Ardclinis on the main road (A2 Garron Road), was a large boulder.

It was known as McKenna’s Chair as it was blessed by the saint. The stone was reputed to have invigorating properties. If a weary traveller rested on the stone, he was said to be immediately refreshed and ready to continue his journey!

Visiting Ardclinis

There is a small carpark off the coastal road for visitors to Ardclinis. From here a gate leads to a field and a wooden bridge crossing a stream to the entrance to the graveyard. You may have to share the route with some interested sheep!

The rural location on the mountainside overlooking the sea is nothing short of beguiling. Certainly its peace and serenity must have refreshed many a soul over the centuries…..

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