Church Lane, Belfast – Skeletons, bars and ‘Bullseye Braithwaite’
Introduction
Church Lane, now a pedestrian shopping area in the heart of the city, has suffered fluctuating fortunes over the years. In the 17th century it was the site of one of Belfast’s earliest schools. Later it was known as the street of shoemakers and was also the home of Belfast’s (reputedly) smallest pub!
The Church
The lane features, though unnamed, in early Belfast maps, running alongside the church on the corner of High Street.
That church itself, has a fascinating history (see link below to post “Capello de Vado“). From a little Catholic church on the banks of the Farset offering solace to travellers, to the Corporation Church with its weekly parade of local dignitaries, subsequently becoming a citadel for Cromwellian troops before finally emerging as the stately St George’s we see today.
The School
In the mid-17th century, the Earl of Donegall built and endowed a school at the rear of the church. This was a classical or ‘Latin’ school providing traditional education for boys. The street was then known as School-house Lean.
“Church Lane was called School-house Lane in the beginning of the eighteenth century and also in the seventeenth century, from the great School of Belfast, which was established in this place by the 1st Earl of Donegall about the year 1666”
George Benn, A History of the Town of Belfast Vol 1 1877
From town documents it appears the school was quite a large building, probably within the church yard near the corner with Ann Street.
The school had a slate roof and a turret with a clock.
“1666. Paid the masons and the carpenters for working at the School House in the Church Yard.
Paid for 42,000 Bricks used at the School
1666 Paid Mr. Waring £52 for timber for the School House, and £1 15s 6d for 2500 slates to finish the School House”
The schoolmaster received a yearly wage of £40. The Belfast School existed for 30-40 years and we are told by local historian Henry Joy in 1818:
“…and in it most of the Gentlemen of Belfast were educated by a succession of teachers, closing with the Rev Nicholas Garnet and the Rev Matthew Garnet, his son”.
Church Lane Residents
A lease offered in 1670 stipulated the building of one-storey houses on the lane “conformable to the buildings in Belfast”. The document also mentions the erection of “one good handsome English like house with brick or stone or lime walls with oaken roof”.
By the turn of the century the street had houses on both sides. In 1717 a Mr Dixon was granted a lease for 4 thatched cottages and “one low slate house” on Church Lane. The annual rent was £3 10 shillings. However, this rent would rise to a staggering £300 if the leasor allowed any ‘Popish Mass House or Meeting House’ to be built on the street.
“..an all-sufficient prohibition to keep at a respectful distance both priest and Presbyterian minister”
George Benn, A History of the Town of Belfast Vol 1 1877
By 1788 the buildings on Church Lane had a frontage of 15ft. However, by the latter half of the 18th century it seems the housing stock on the street was in a poor way being described as “only very old rotten Cabbins, in absolute immediate need of being rebuilt”.
By the Act of 1800 for the “Paving, cleansing, lighting and improving of several streets in Belfast” we see Church Lane as one of the streets requiring repair.
Shoemakers
In the 19th century the lane was renowned for its large number of cobblers or shoemakers’ shops. This profession carried on here for some considerable time. In 1861 William Palmer, S Moore, J Moore, Alexander McBratney, William Trimble, Edward Maguire, Edward Birnie, Edward McKinney, Daniel Somerville, Robert Brown, James Mortimer, Thomas Palmer, Samuel Moore and J & W Mortimer are all listed as ‘boot and shoemakers’ on Church Lane.
Watch and Clock Making
Another profession associated with Church Lane was watch and clock making.
In 1861 Dilger & Winterhalder had a horology business at No 38 and R Kilner had a similar business at No 18. This later became Beringer Bros. clock makers, and by 1877 they were doing so well they extended the business into No 16.
In 1901 the German-born Beringers brothers, John and Joseph and the latter’s wife Josephine and family were living at 28 Vicinage Park in north Belfast. Joseph had trained as a watchmaker in Geneva following in the family tradition.
According to the trade journal Watchmaker, Jeweller & Silversmith (July 1958) his watch-maker grandfather Fidel Boehringer born in 1777 came to London in 1822. He anglicised the surname while working in Cornwall. The Beringer business existed on Church Lane until 1951.
In 1890 R A Browne is listed as ‘watch and clock maker, jeweller etc.’ at No 8 as was R H Hamilton at No 30. In 1894 R Martin is in the same profession at No 10.
Other Church Lane Businesses
Church Lane was the site of many businesses, storerooms and warehouses. This is not surprising given its location, running between Belfast’s two main commercial thoroughfares High Street and Ann Street. At this time most folk lived above or close to their business ventures.
In 1805 Francis Fallon, John Martin and Samuel Kirkpatrick had grocery stores on the street catering to the locals. In 1819 Thomas Moffet, a baker, lived at 2 Church Lane. By 1822 Church Lane is listed as having 41 houses with 116 male and 130 female residents.
By the mid-19th century other inhabitants of Church Lane included –
- William Reid – Hat and sewed muslin manufacturer
- W & J Gordon – Provision and butter dealers
- James G Allen – Dressmaker
- William McVeigh – Feather merchant and purifier
1870’s Demolition
In the late 1870’s some buildings on the lane described by the Irish Builder as “some of the oldest houses in the town” were demolished to make way for the premises for Gregg’s Ironmongers.
This handsome building was designed by William Batt junior. Batt was a prolific architect. Among his works are the main entrance gates at Botanic Gardens, the Ceylon Buildings on Victoria Street and the National Bank on High Street (see link to post High Street Belfast – A History).
“This interesting façade is exactly as it was in 1879, and is accordingly both rare and valuable…..Indeed, this building demonstrates how the practical demands of light in shop and office windows could be met despite a substantial measure of ostentation”
C E B Brett Buildings of Belfast 1967
Sadly, this lovely building has also been demolished
John Frackleton and the Ghosts of Saint George’s
One of the longest lasting enterprises on Church Lane was that of John Frackleton – plate and crown glass, paint, oil and colour merchants. They were situated at no 42 from at least 1860.
In 1877 the business had become Frackleton & Sons, and is last listed in the street directory in 1932.
It was at the Frackleton premises at the turn of the 20th century that a “strange discovery” was made (see link below to the post ‘The Ghosts of St George’s – The Cemetery of Forgotten Souls’)
Miss Moran
Another enduring shop on Church Lane was Miss Moran’s tobacconist at Nos 4-6.
The building is first listed as a tobacconist in 1880 under the proprietorship of William McLarnon. In 1934 Miss Moran is recorded as the owner.
Church Lane Bars
The White Hart
In 1800 arguably Belfast’s most famous inn, the White Hart, was situated on Church Lane. This was described as “old established” by 1804.
Wonder if Mr Martin ever got his boots?
The Store Bar
At the turn of the century the Store Bar existed at No. 21, landlord Alexander McCann. The building was designed by architect John Russell.
“There are one or two examples of art nouveau the best is Crymble’s music-shop…..another is the Store Bar in Church Lane, dating from 1905, with fine curving windows and tilework”
C E B Brett, Buildings of Belfast, 1967
The Store Bar was part of the Braithwaite & McCann chain. This partnership ended up owning 15 bars in Belfast including the Hatfield on the Ormeau Road and the Ulster Tavern in Chichester Street.
William Thomas Braithwaite was born in Belfast on 14th April 1844. As well as a successful business man and freemason, he was an excellent marksman. Braithwaite represented Ireland for 20 years in the Elcho Sheild long-range shooting competition and won the Albert Jewel for rifle shooting, and the Wimbledon Cup and the Duke of Cambridge trophy for his shooting abilities. His prowess with a gun earned him the nickname ‘Bullseye Braithwaite’.
The Boreen Public House
The buildings at Nos 12-18 were constructed in 1840. This was a three-storey stucco terrace. No 14 housed the Boreen public house. At a width of only 7ft and 22ft in length it is said to have been the smallest bar in the town.
In the 1990’s its named changed to the Glass Jar, it was later extended and is now Muriel’s Café Bar.
Other Hospitality Businesses
Other venues offering ‘hospitality’ on Church Lane over the years included – John Rice’s dining and refreshment rooms (1861), while Eliza Wright and Eliza Anne O’Neill are both listed as publicans in 1877.
In 1880 Ellen Kennedy ran the Brompton Dining Rooms while in 1890 Bernard McCrory had a pub on the corner with Cole’s Alley. In the 20th century this became the Venetian Café which served teas “at moderate prices on the shortest notice”. This was opened in the 1920’s by Italian immigrant Gerardo Fusco. The café also seems to have served as a music venue. Unfortunately, it was badly damaged during the Blitz of WW2 and had to be demolished.
Other cafés with an international flavour on Church Lane were the ice-cream saloon of Alfonso Forte at No 3 and the Devito Brothers and P Borza’s refreshments at No 22.
From 1912 until the Second World War, Church Lane was also the location of Miss Campbell’s ‘Cabin Tea Rooms’.
One unusual court case in 1905 involved a young man, Alexander Horner, who was allegedly shot at by one Carmen Rossi, the owner of an ice-parlour at 42 Church Lane. The altercation arose when Mr Horner was served hot peas instead of his requested glass of lemonade!
Accommodation
There were also boarding houses on Church Lane including, in 1861, that of Peter Hughes and J Megarry in 1868.
In 1880 George Starkey was the proprietor of the Victoria Temperance Hotel on the street. An early lodging house, which was described as having “very good Entertainment for both Man and Horse”, was the King’s Head on Church Lane.
Church Lane Today
Today Church Lane continues to be a busy commercial throughfare, connecting two of Belfast’s main shopping streets. Hint’s of its memorable past remain when we look above the modern shop fronts to see the history remaining.
In this respect not much has changed. Though it no longer opens onto the Farset, much of its character remains as it was when first laid out. For a small 17th‑century street, Church Lane has had an impressive existence!
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