Marquis Street, Belfast – Let There Be Light!
Early Days
Marquis Street, in Belfast’s city centre is one of many old thoroughfares that has seen better days. Yet this rundown street has a remarkable history. It runs from Castle Street (previously Mill Street) to Berry Street (previously the old Smithfield Square), roughly parallel to Chapel Lane. Smithfield is historically one of the town’s most notorious yet ‘colourful’ districts.
The street has existed from at least 1788 when it was known as Ram’s Alley. Subsequently it was called Ferguson’s Lane. This was because John Ferguson, father of the poet Samuel Ferguson, had a tan yard here. The process of tanning hides was extremely malodorous, so we can assume the area was not deemed ‘desirable’.
Marquis Street – Early Residents
The name was changed later to Marquis Street in honour of the leading Donegall family, who ‘owned’ Belfast and the surrounding districts.
At the turn of the 19th century, according to Belfast gazetteer Marcus Patton, a ‘weekly school’ was opened here. Its aim was to provide education for servants and apprentices whose work commitments prevented them from attending school during the day.
In 1812 Belfast’s House of Industry was established on the east side of Marquis Street. This provided employment for the poor, so that they could earn a living and break out of the cycle of poverty (see link below to the post ‘ise and Fall of the ‘House of Industry’).
In the 1820’s there was also a police-office on Marquis Street.
Living Conditions
In the mid-19th century, the working-class district of Smithfield was one of the least salubrious areas of Belfast. While Marquis Street may not have been the worst, it seems the residents were very unhappy with the situation and lack of facilities. It was not until the end of the 19th century that the drainage and sewage systems in this area of the town were overhauled to prevent frequent flooding.
The opinion of Reverend William O’Hanlon:
“… Marquis-street, which runs out of Smithfield into Mill-street. This, like so many other parts of the town, is, I believe, wholly destitute of the requisite means of domestic cleanliness, and most bitter were the complaints of some of the inhabitants as to the condition of the locality altogether”
Rev W M O’Hanlon, 12th October 1852
Indeed, the Reverend gentleman in his Walks Among the Poor of Belfast book (see link to post “O’Hanlon’s Belfast” regarded McLean’s Court, which ran off Marquis Street as “all that is foul and filthy”. This rather contradicts a, rather optimistic, newspaper advertisement that predicted a rise in property prices in the area some 10 years earlier!
Belfast, at that time, (like the majority of towns) was a lot more unhygienic than we are accustomed to today, but as this newspaper report shows Marquis Street was far from the only area affected.
Phadyees and Fadgies
The Marquis Street district was also home to a community of Irish speakers who came from Omeath in County Louth. They were colloquially known as Phadyees or Fadgies due to the frequency of the name Patrick or Paddy.
They tended to be fish and oyster dealers. Local historian Liam Mac Carrain refers to the Fadgies living in the Marquis Street area in the 1880’s before spreading to the lower Falls Road where they owned a number of fish and fruit shops.
Mid-Century Residents
Mid-century the street was home to a range of small businesses and entertainment premises.
“…it [Marquis Street] had housed a lively mixture of pubs and general dealers”.
Marcus Patton Central Belfast, A Historical Gazetteer 1993
In 1852 there were 5 enterprises on Marquis Street listed as spirit dealers or pubs.
One long lasting enterprise was that of Mrs O’Neills pub at 23 Marquis Street. It was described in a newspaper notice of 1869 as “a Grocery and Public-House for upwards of 50 years, and is at present doing good business”.
There were also boarding houses, clothes dealers and pawn shops, usually indicators of a poorer neighbourhood.
Other occupants were:
- Edward Quinn No 15 bellows maker
- Peter Mullen No 19 book seller
- Hugh Cochrane No 12 hairdresser
- James McGrade No 26 umbrella and parasol manufacturer
Decline and Demolition
However, in 1880 the west side of Marquis Street was demolished. The street directory for 1890 lists only 10 properties, 3 of which are vacant. By the turn of the 20th century, Marquis Street appears in a rather ramshackle and dilatated state.
In 1901 there are only 4 occupied residential houses on Marquis Street, the homes of 17 folk. It is noticeable that all the families had taken in boarders. This was a common way for the poor to supplement their income and provided cheap lodgings for people coming to Belfast in search of employment.
A decade later there are only 2 families still living on Marquis Street. The O’Roukes – father, mother, son, niece, 2 nephews and 3 boarders are at No 5. Nine adults sharing 4 rooms. Meanwhile, the multi-generational MacCormac’s – parents, son, daughter, granddaughter and granny all resided at No 7. The other buildings on the street are listed as stores, offices and stabling.
On the Bright Side
One notable event that happened on Marquis Street at Nos 9-13 in 1895 was the erection of the City of Belfast Electric Light Central Station. This was also accessible from Chapel Lane. This generated the power for the first electric street lights in the city.
Private electrical installations had occurred from the mid-19th century, particularly on Queen’s Island in the vicinity of the Harland and Wolf shipyards.
However, in 1890 by the Belfast Lighting Order, Belfast Corporation obtained permission to install, generate and sell electricity within its jurisdiction.
A grand ceremony was held on 24th January attended by Belfast Lord Mayor Mr William McCammond and other local dignitaries. McCammond and alderman W J Pirrie together turned on the switch which provided the electric street lighting.
The thoroughfares which benefitted from this innovation were – Royal Ave., Donegall Place, Castle Place, High Street, Chichester Street, Corn Market, Victoria Street, Bridge Street, Ann Street, North Street, Arthur Street and Castle Street.
“Completed in early 1895, this building is Belfast’s earliest power station and is thought to be the oldest surviving civic structure of its kind within Northern Ireland. It was built as something of an experiment, the then Belfast Corporation being uncertain whether the provision of electrical power, even on a limited scale, would prove popular”
www.communities-ni,gov.uk
Exhibition of Light
Later that evening an “exhibition of the light” was presented at the Theatre Royal on Arthur Street (see post Belfast’s Theatre Royal – Built 3 Times, Destroyed 3 Times).
Professor Kennedy, members of the Electric Committee and representatives of the local elite attended. The fittings were installed by Messrs. Richard Patterson & Sons of High Street. Both the auditorium and the theatre entrances were illuminated.
The result was described – “The effect of the electricity in the interior is very pleasing, and adds greatly to the appearance of the house from the stage”
Design of the Light Station
The design of the Electric Light Station was the work of London-based architect Charles Stanley Peach, who specialised in utilities and commercial projects.
It was a 2-storey building with large arched windows and doorway on the ground level. Unfortunately, the front edifice was removed in 1923.
Hostelries
The Smithfield district was known for its many hostelries.
“Entering Smithfield by one of those thoroughfares, which lead to it from one of the more elegant parts of the town, the first thing that arrested our attention, as usual, was the number and evident prosperity of the temples of Bacchus….”
Rev W M O’Hanlon, Walks Among the Poor of Belfast, 1852
Maddens Pub
Today, on the corner of Marquis Street and Berry Street stands Maddens Pub. This has long been the focus for the local community.
Madden’s is famous for its traditional music and friendly atmosphere. Though slightly off the tourist trail it remains a popular venue. As with may an Irish pub, some of Madden’s regulars are of the more ‘ghostly’ persuasion, just ask the landlord!
Marquis Street Today
Marquis Street today is an abandoned thoroughfare, its long history largely forgotten. However, it is often these neglected areas that tell the ‘real’ story of our city.
While grand municipal buildings and ornate mansions recount the lives of the wealthy and the prosperity of the town, the ordeals of the poor are sadly overlooked, but it was on the backs of these folk, our ancestors, that Belfast was established and rose to prominence.
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