Armoy – An Eventful History
Armoy Village
Armoy is a small village in County Antrim. Like other villages in the area, its small population belies its historical status. In past times this was one of the most important ecclesiastical centres in the north of Ireland.
Armoy Location
Armoy straddles the baronies of Carey and Upper Dunluce, 49 miles from Belfast and less than 6 miles from the lovely coastal town of Ballycastle. Its location in the renowned Glens and Causeway area, is one of the most scenic and folk-lore filled regions on the island.
“There is no town in this parish and the only village is Armoy, which is prettily situated on the northern bank of the River Bush”
James Boyle Ordnance Survey Memoirs September 1835
Armoy – Early Times
Originally known in Irish as ‘Oirthear Mai’ (the ‘east plain’). The village began as a monastic settlement. It is said that St Patrick had a cell here in the 5th century.
The site of the ancient monastery is thought to be where the present Church of Ireland church of St Patrick’s now stands.
The monastery was established on the River Bush at the foot of two glens – Glenshesk from the Gaelic Gleann Seisce, meaning ‘the sedgy valley’ and Glentaisie meaning ‘of the bright cheeks’. The land had been granted to St Patrick by Fergus Mor MacEarca, the first Christian king in Ireland.
The Battle for Princess Taisie
The Glentaisie valley name ‘of the bright cheeks’ is said to be named in honour of a fair Irish princess – Taisie. She was the daughter of King Dorm of Rathlin Island (see post Rathlin Island – An Eventful History).
As was the old way, her father secured her an advantageous marriage with Congal, heir of an Irish king. However, tales of the young princess’s beauty had spread far and wide. So much so, that the King of Norway sought her hand in marriage. However, by the time the Norwegian fleet had landed the wedding of Taisie and Congal was well underway.
The Norwegian king was determined to secure his prize, and attacked the assembled crowd. This was to be his last action, as he was killed in the battle and his men were forced to return to their ships and their homeland.
The Story of Olcan
The founder of Armoy monastery was St Olcan. It is said that Olcan was found as an infant by St Patrick and his disciples on Drumbolcan Hill at Rasharkin. His poor mother, who had travelled from overseas, had died and the baby was found beside her corpse.
St Patrick baptised the starving child and had him looked after. He named the baby Olcanus meaning ‘little one’.
In a 16th century manuscript ‘Martyrology of Salisbury’, it is stated that Olcan was actually St Patrick’s nephew, the son of his deceased sister.
As a young man Olcan was sent to France to be educated. In 474AD he returned to Ireland and was ordained at Dunseverick Castle (see post Dunseverick Castle). Olcan was subsequently anointed a bishop, the first Christian bishop in Ireland.
“The Tripartite Life relates that St Patrick having baptised Olcan, on subsequent evidence of his great advance in piety and learning placed him as bishop over the church of Rath-mugia or Arthir-mugia, the chief town of the Dalredini”
Rev William Reeves, Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Down, Connor and Dromore 1847
St Patrick entrusted the relics of St Peter and St Paul to Olcan and the monastery became a place of pilgrimage.
Armoy lay in the historic territory of Dalriada, which encompassed the northeast of Ireland and the Scottish Isles.
“This monastic community was in existence from the 5th to the 9th centuries and was once the main religious settlement in the Irish part of the ancient kingdom of Dalriada”
Glens of Antrim Historical Society, March 2021
Armoy Monastery
The monastery became a site of learning and religious observance.
“Armoy was one of twenty-one ancient monasteries which had schools of instruction attached to them”. Not only did it attract Irish students but also “Gauls, Germans, and Romans”
14th century manuscript, Stowe Library
St Olcan is reputed to be buried in the old graveyard at Cranfield, in soil brought from Rome. His nearby Holy Well is still regarded as a sacred place today (see post The Holy Well of St Olcan – Every Tatter Tells a Story).
Armoy Round Tower
A later prominent feature of the monastic development is its round tower. Round towers are a prevalent feature of the Irish landscape. They were built at a time when Viking attacks were a constant threat. Hence, they are usually found in coastal areas or near navigable rivers.
The rounded stone walls prevented the use of ladders by invaders. The entrance was several yards above head height. It was accessed by a rope ladder which was pulled up when the last escapee had entered the building.
Round towers usually had 3 to 4 wooden floors linked by ladders. Four slit windows near the top allowed the occupants to guard in all directions. The roof top was usually conical in shape. These towers were used as places of refuge during times of attack and for securing church valuables from looters.
Of the 11th century Armoy round tower only about 38 feet of its height still survives. The external diameter of the base is just over 47 feet. It was composed of sandstone. The lower slabs are long and narrow while the upper boulders are more rounded. The south-facing door is narrow with a rounded arch and a massive stone lintel. The thickness of the walls at the doorway is 3ft 10 inches. Due to later burials in the surrounding graveyard the entrance is now only about 5 foot above ground level.
In 1805, shockingly from a modern point of view, an attempt was made to demolish Armoy round tower and use the ancient stone to build a Glebe House or rectory. However, the locals resisted and the tower remains in place.
Armoy Monastery Excavations
During excavations in 1843 led by Belfast-born antiquarian and naturalist Edmund Getty, a partial skeleton was discovered in the tower. It is thought the head and spine retrieved may have been from a prominent chieftain, whose interment here was a mark of respect.
Further oval-shaped tunnels have also been uncovered in the area. These were dug under the rock all the way to the Lagge crossroads and the River Bush, probably as escape routes.
The name Lagge comes from the Gaelic word ‘log’ meaning ‘hollow’. Legend has it that a giant scooped up an L-shaped sod of earth here and threw it in the sea. This became Rathlin Island.
Also discovered on the site is a souterrain, from the French ‘underground’. These are man-made chambers or tunnels, usually lined with stone slabs. This proves the existence of an early Christian settlement. The chamber could be used as a ‘cold larder’ for storing foodstuffs such as milk and butter during the summer months. They could also be utilised as hide-outs during periods of danger. The Armoy souterrain has been dated to c1000 AD.
The Anglican Church of St Patrick
However, by the 17th century the old church was no longer fit for purpose, possibly due to the ravages of the English Reformation. The Visitation Book of 1662 records the church at Armoy as “unroofed”.
In 1740 the Anglican church of St Patrick was constructed on the site of the earlier medieval church.
The current church was built in 1820 with a church loan of £415. It incorporates some of the old walls. It was built of local basalt rubble in a plain Gothic style, fronted by a square tower.
In 1846 a new chancel was added. On top of the spire is a salmon-shaped weathervane, related no doubt, to the famous Bush River and its salmon population.
“Set in a landscape of myth and legend, the site of St Patrick’s church stands testament to the long tradition of Christianity in the land of saints and scholars”
www.nationalchurchtrust.org
Inside the church the eastern stained-glass window has three lancets depicting Faith, Hope and Charity. These were the work of Londoner Henry Holiday, during his employment with the Powell Glass Works.
By the 19th century, Samuel Lewis in his Topographical Dictionary of Ireland, says that the then incumbent of St Patrick’s had a wooden and stone dome constructed over the remains of the round tower and had it transformed into a belfry.
In 1997, prior to work near the church, further excavations were carried out. In the lower trenches mainly on the western side, early Christian pottery was uncovered. Later shards of domestic and imported ceramic ware were also discovered. Within the church itself, 56 burials, mostly adults, were found including the severed feet of a leper victim dated at least 400 years old.
Exterior excavations discovered a stone plinth, which is thought to be a surviving section of the south wall of the old medieval church building.
Surrounding St Patrick’s is an interesting old graveyard. The wall of the graveyard reflects the outline of the early monastic settlement. The cemetery, like the church, is on an elevation which slopes down the valley to the River Wellwater, a tributary of the River Bush.
Some of the earliest legible headstones date from the 1730’s and 40’s, before the current church was built (inscriptions shown as they appear on the headstones).
| 1743 This is pre pared for The burying Place of JO HN DARAGH And wherein Lyeth the body of Mary | Here Lyeth The body of Patrick McCaroy Who was deceased August ye 10 1735 Aged 55 | Here Lyeth the Body of ALEX McD ONEL Who Died July 1744 Aged 41 |
One of the earliest graves is that of the McKay family with Margaret McKay passing on 26th April 1716, ‘Ann, Dec ye 21 1735’ and ‘Daniel, March ye 6 1744’.
The most common surnames in the graveyard are McCooke, Stewart, McMullen and McBride.
Reverend Ralph Wilde
One of the headstones is that of the Rev Ralph Wilde, uncle of the famous author Oscar Wilde. He died on 10th October 1882, aged 83.
Ralph Wilde came to the parish of Armoy under tragic family circumstances.
His brother, William Wilde, was a respected eye and ear surgeon in the capital Dublin. William’s St Mark’s clinic in the city treated patients from all over Ireland and was a renowned teaching facility for students from Europe and north America. However, while having a family of three -William, Oscar and Isola, with his wife Jane (nee Eglee), William also had three older offspring. These children, born ‘out of wedlock’, were Henry (1838), Emily (1847) and Mary (1849). While his illegitimate family were kept ‘under the radar’ due to the fear of scandal, William did provide for their well-being and education.
At some point, William approached his brother Ralph and asked him to become guardian for his daughters Emily and Mary. In 1871 the girls were living with their uncle at Drumsnatt in County Monaghan, where Ralph Wilde was rector of St Molua’s Church.
On October 31st the girls were invited to a Halloween ball at Drumaconnor House, near Smithboro. We can only imagine their excitement when their uncle agreed! Mary was 22 and Emily was 24.
At the party the fun and gaiety were overwhelming. Towards the end of the evening Emily was asked to dance by the host Mr Reid. As she smiled and twirled however, her dress caught alight, either on one of the numerous candles or from the flames of the fire in the hearth. Mary rushed to help her sister. They both raced outside to roll in the grass of the lawn to extinguish the flames, but it was too late. Mary died from burns on 8th November and Emily on the 21st.
In the Victorian era highly flammable crinoline dresses caused more deaths of women than any other cause. In a 10-year period, it is reckoned 3,000 British women were burned to death due to this fatal fashion. Light-weight combustible fabrics such as cotton, muslin and gauze with swirling skirts were easily set on fire and spread rapidly causing an agonising death.
“These dresses, combined with candles and gaslight in a world before electricity, led to a multitude of women being taken by the flame”
Rae Nudson A History of Women Who Burned to Death in Flammable Dresses 2017
Perhaps by mistake or to save the Wilde family embarrassment, at the inquiry in Carrickmacross the sisters were recorded as Mary and Emily Wylie. William Wilde attended the funerals and was distraught at the too-soon deaths of his daughters. The girls were buried in St Molua’s cemetery. The headstone reads
In memory of
Two loving and beloved sisters
Emily Wilde aged 24
And
Mary Wilde aged 22
Who lost their lives by accident
In this parish in November 1871
They were lovely and pleasant in
Their lives and in their death they
Were not divided.
Armoy Village
In later times the focus of Armoy changed slightly in order to harness the power of the Bush River with mills being constructed along its banks.
In the 19th century Armoy village had a population of 129 and was said to be
“…flourishing and has a penny post to Ballycastle: several handsome houses have been built, new roads have been opened, and bridges constructed over the river Wellwater (a tributary of the River Bush)”
Samuel Lewis A Topographical Dictionary of Ireland 1837
The village consisted of 20 2-storey slated houses “substantial and suited to persons in business” plus approximately 23 stone-built mostly thatched cottages. These homes usually consisted of 3 rooms and had 2-3 glazed windows.
The average size family was 5 and their diet consisted mainly of oatmeal and potatoes, though we are told that tea was becoming a popular beverage. The only fuel was turf.
The National School in Armoy taught 35 boys and 25 girls. 17 Protestant and 43 Catholic. It was supported by an annual grant of £8.
As for leisure time, the Ordnance Survey Memoirs records their “principal amusement is dancing”
Armoy Fairs and Markets
A market place with a shed around it was erected in the 1830’s. There were numerous fairs or markets held throughout the year – on January 28th, February 25th, March 29th, May 25th, August 16th, November 14th and St Stephen’s Day December 26th. Livestock and horses, plus corn and butter were for sale.
Unfortunately, these fairs in Armoy were often the scene of ‘party’ riots when people of differing religious and political views were gathered together.
“(The parish) consists chiefly of the descendants of Scottish emigrants. There are, however, a great number of the descendants of original Irish inhabiting the glens and mountainous parts of the parish. These last chiefly constitute the Catholic part of the population”
Lieutenant Robert Boteler, Statistical Account September 1832
However, apart from these fracas, Armoy was generally a peaceful place – there were only 4 policemen employed for the whole parish.
“There are not outrages of any other kind, nor is there any place where property is more secure”
James Boyle Ordnance Survey Memoirs September 1835
Further Village Improvements
There was also a flax mill powered by a ‘breast water wheel‘ (this collects the water in buckets to turn the wheel). The wheel was 13 feet in diameter and 2 foot wide.
The humpback bridge in Armoy, which spans 45 feet, is the principal bridge over the River Bush.
By 1887 the village of Armoy had acquired a fountain to supply pure water to the residents. This was conveyed by pipe from a natural spring some quarter of a mile distant.
“….erected last year to the memory of Andrew R Wilson, a resident, who died in 1886”
George Henry Bassett County Antrim A Guide and Directory 1888
The Presbyterian Meeting House
In the 19th century there was a Presbyterian Meeting House close to Armoy but on the opposite side of the river in the parish of Loughguile. The congregation was formed in 1768.
The building measured 64ft by 21ft and could accommodate 450 people. The present church was opened in 1842. It has a distinctive weather vane in the shape of a Viking ship – a reference to the area’s past history. The spire is also likened to a miniature Eiffel tower.
St Olcan’s Catholic Church
The Catholic Church was situated in the townland of Cromaghs and was dedicated to St Olcan. It was 70ft long by 24ft wide and had room for a congregation of 300.
In 1835 it was described as “not comfortable internally and is in but middling repair”. Fortunately for the parishioners the church is now comfortable, bright and warm!
Early 20th Century Armoy
At the turn of the 20th century Armoy boasted 260 inhabitants. Of these Miss Frances Kilpatrick and Miss Lizzie K Miller were National School teachers, Samuel Carson was the postman, Robert Morrison a stone mason and Alexander Connolly was a master carpenter. Archibald Brogan ran a grocery store, Patrick McLinn a butchers and Patrick Watt a spirit merchants, Miss Gertude Brizzell also provided music lessons.
The village was a stop on the Ballycastle to Ballymoney Railway line and the Station Master was James Brown. The railway opened on 18th October 1880 but unfortunately closed on 3rd July 1950.
There was a post office under the management of Samuel F McMullen. Mail arrived at 9:97am, 1:38pm and 6:10pm and was despatched at 7:00am. 10:47am and 4:15pm – very precise! The local dispensary was run by Dr J McIlroy and the local pub/hotel by a Mrs Donnelly.
In the 1906 Directory, Armoy is described as
“…..it stands in the centre of a fertile, prosperous and well-cultivated district, the inhabitants of which are remarkable for their industrious and peaceable habits”
Armoy Today
Today as well as being a picturesque village, Armoy is known for holding ploughing championships and for the nearby Dark Hedges, of Game of Thrones repute.
However, it is most famous for hosting the annual Armoy Road Race, also known as the ‘Race of Legends’. Up to 27 motorcyclists partake of the 3-mile course, along public roads and through the village itself.
Amongst the most famous were the Armoy Armada, a quartet of intrepid local motor-cyclists – Frank Kennedy, Mervyn Robinson, Joey Dunlop and Jim Dunlop.
Armoy today is a pretty, friendly village set against the stunning landscape of the glens. The quietness of the location (for most of the year) and its unassuming aspect, are totally at odds with its inspiring history, as this brief synopsis shows. How fortunate we are in Ireland to have so much culture and heritage at our fingertips!
Note: Further information on St. Patrick’s graveyard can be found in “St. Patrick’s Church Graveyard Armoy” by Dorothy Arthur, published 2017)
Related Posts
The Holy Well of Saint Olcan – Every Tatter Tells a Story
Dunseverick Castle, The Causeway Coast – Saint Patrick, The Vikings, Crusades and Destruction
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